| A Paradise Recycled |
In our wildest imaginings, Indonesia of our forefathers was never like this, but are we complaining? Certainly not. We are instead humming contentedly on the veranda of Rumah Mandau, a solid teak, handcrafted antique dwelling home in traditional rumah tinggal style that once stood in western Java. Now it sits prettily among 23 antique wooden dwellings that had been carefully disassembled, shipped to this spot next to rice fields near Seminyak in south Bali, and preserved for our pleasure at Desa Seni, a “village resort.”
An idealized village this is: a mosiac of organic vegetable gardens and rice plots, lush tropi-scaping, and these beautiful old structures connected by meandering paths over small foot bridges that preserve the natural irrigation flow through the contours of the property. Birdsong is punctuated by the soft clip-clip-clip of gardeners on their haunches shearing grass by hand. Nearby is the large open-air yoga pavillion—classes are free to guests (and to locals on Sundays, one of the ways the resort connects to the Balinese who live nearby). A big saltwater pool is perfect for a cool-off or exercise swim. Spa treatments include watsu (water massage). Those who crave contact with life outside the village can hop onto a bicycle or the internet (no charge for either).
History lovingly recycled
Back to our house. Desi Seni translates as “art village,” and each of the antique structures (from islands scattered throughout the Indonesian archipelago—Bali, Java, Lombok and Kalimantan) is named for a well-known Indonesian poet, artist, writer or dancer. All are filled with recycled furnishings, i.e., original village pieces once used in daily life. On our terrace, for instance, a low table with a carved ox head at one end is a lesung, used in the early 1900s for mashing rice. Inside are similar items of wonder, including (in the hedonistic bathroom added to the original house) a towel rack made from the back strap of a traditional hand loom. The sink is a slab of wood, ingeniously angled for flow. Other guest dwellings, we’re told, boast such vintage oddities as a former “circumcision chair.” If any of this sounds rustic, don’t be misled: 5-star amenities include a flat screen TV with a DVD/CD player and iPod docking station, nightly turn-down service, and a guest welcome basket that includes organic mosquito repellent and a packet of flower seeds that you are invited to plant during your stay. Almost wherever you find yourself in the village, a glass of icy cold drinking water appears at your side, courtesy of a smiling staff member (more than 60 locals are employed here).
No corporate confection
One of several organic gardens
We had feared this village concept might prove, well, a bit hokey. But Desa Seni is no corporate confection. Howard Klein and Tom Talucci, Desa Seni’s designers—and owners—have displayed impeccable taste and attention to detail. Tom, a former Chicago restaurateur, also oversees a first-rate kitchen that draws on the health and vibrancy of the organic gardens (including the resort’s own organic rice). A gourmet breakfast is included in your stay, and all meals we sampled were excellent. Housekeeping and landscaping are done with natural products. Maybe Bali never knew a real village quite like this one, but Desa Seni is truly a green work of art.
