| Land of Lakes |
On the eastern shore of Vembanad Lake, in southwestern India’s Kerala, darter birds dive at silvery flashes, and boats come and boats go. Many of these craft are kettuvallum, traditional rice boats that have been outfitted to cruise with tourists on the lakes, rivers, estuaries and canals of these backwaters. For green travelers there is no better destination in this watery world than Coconut Lagoon, which, in fact, is reachable only by water.
Spice Coast Cruises, a small fleet of eco-friendly rice boats (see “Eco-Sensitive Tourism in Kerala’s Backwaters, Part 2), frequently drops guests here. Both Spice Coast Cruises and Coconut Lagoon are operated by CGH Earth.
The resort is a like a museum of traditional South Indian architecture in the most natural of settings. Each of its buildings and guest accommodations—some more than 200 years old—was abandoned elsewhere or destined to be razed; instead they were moved to this peaceful place, restored and placed on these expansive grounds. The oldest structure in the resort, now used for guest reception, is a malukettu with an open-roof courtyard built in 1860 for a local Brahmin family. Interspersed with narrow canals is an informal arboretum of labeled tree and plants, including many native ayurveda and medicinal species. A virtually extinct breed of small Keralan cow, the Vechur, roams the pesticide-free grounds (and trims the grass!). A butterfly garden is host to 90 species, some quite rare. A fish sanctuary is a breeding ground for pearl spot fish, a delicacy of Kerala. Brahminy kites, marsh harriers and many exotically plumed birds visit from a nearby sanctuary. A staff naturalist is on hand to introduce you to this very special eco-system.
We stay in a recycled tharawad bungalow set on emerald green lawn next to the Kavanar River, where the rice boats glide by. A hammock waits just beyond our front porch. The open-roofed bathroom echoes traditional Kerala but, as with the rest of the cottage, it offers all the comfort of a luxury hotel. Other lodging choices are 2-story “heritage mansions” and pool villas. Only natural, nontoxic cleaners are used, and guests get gentle advice on how to conserve energy and water.
‘Back of the house’ tour
A resort accessible only by boat
Other green practices are even more impressive. For example, Coconut Lagoon has zero food waste. A sophisticated system separates biogas used in the kitchens and for outdoor lights, oil for biofuel and a slurry that is combined with garden and yard compost. The compost nourishes the resort’s organic gardens (they even grow their own mushrooms). Waste water is treated by the resort’s own system. Monsoon rains and lake water undergo a 3-stage filtration for resort use. Solar panels heat water. Non-biodegradables are carefully sorted for recycling. Interestingly, these “back of the house” operations are part of a daily property tour, as guests are encouraged to see first-hand how seriously Coconut Lagoon takes its environmental stewardship. Even if you skip the tour, you can’t miss the sweet smell of natural mosquito repellant as it wafts through the property as dusk approaches—unless you’re out for the sunset cruise on the resort’s solar-powered boat.
Rare Vechur cows trim the lawn
You won’t go hungry here. Bounty from the organic gardens pair with fresh backwaters fish, shellfish and other chemical-free local sourcing to become Keralan delights at lavish buffets or a la carte. Or you may sample special ayurveda drinks and foods that have specific restorative, digestive or cooling effects. The resort has its own ayurvedic spa, where the ancient healing methods of India can be sampled for a few hours or over several days. A qualified vaidyar (ayurvedic physician) is available to recommend appropriate therapies.
Among the many other activities offered here is a walking tour into the adjoining village, a chance to see how life is lived in these backwaters. But for fans of the acclaimed, award-winning novel The God of Small Things by Arundhati Roy it is even more. For this is none other than the village of Aymanam (called “Ayemenem” in the novel).
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