| Maharana of Green | Rajasthan is famous for its palaces. These fabulous fortresses scattered across this storied, and still fascinating, state of India remain as monuments to the enormous wealth and regal whims of their original occupants, the absolute rulers of these erstwhile feudal domains. But the palaces of southwestern Rajasthan, on placid Lake […]
| His Green Majesty | Everywhere you go in Thailand, there he is. Shrines with his portrait, towering images draped in banners and floral arrangements, are seemingly omnipresent. Oddly, in this country sometimes called the Land of Smiles, he is seldom seen with a smile on his royal face. But Thailand reveres him. He is […]
| Delhi’s Mission Possible? | How is it that India’s vast capital city, roundly maligned in the past as among the world’s most toxic metropolises, now says it hopes to be pollution-free in 2010? It’s a story line as unlikely as, say, Slum Dog Millionaire sweeping the Oscars, and, yes, it seems totally improbable to us. […]
| Green In Uttar Pradesh | Even in one of India’s most visited (and justly celebrated) places, you can’t be too careful. The standard guidebooks warn of pickpockets and pushy touts who pretend to be guides. As green travel sleuths, though, we worry about the basics when we’re in Agra, home to the iconic Taj […]
| Holy But Filthy | You must come to Varanasi. Here in this holiest of Hindu cities edged by the holiest of Hindu rivers, your eyes are opened to the mystical India, an unfathomable place which defies so-called rational (i.e., Western) explanation and challenges all your senses, all at the same time, almost all of […]
| Inspiration to Millions | If you don’t know her amazing story, you should. She’s Vandana Shiva, environmental guru and so much more. Based in New Delhi, she’s been a thorn in the side of GMO thugs like Monsanto and became high priestess of India’s tree huggers as far back as the 1970s. She’s fought […]
| A Village Green | We’re climbing most of the 5-hour drive from the Malabar Coast (in that cartoonish Indian classic, the white Ambassador sedan). Past coffee, teak, rubber and tea plantations splayed across the hillsides, chaotic villages and lush forest, until the air cools perceptably and sends us motes of cardamom, cinnamon, clove. We’re […]
| Green Sugar Sand | The western edge of the southern Indian state of Kerala is virtually a long beach, but this isn’t the Costa Brava or even Goa. Only relatively few stretches are traveler-ready, and these, like Kovalam in the far south, are rapidly becoming overdeveloped to the point of serious strain on their […]
| Water, Water Everywhere | In the state of Kerala, greenest in all India, there are not 1 but 2 monsoon seasons each year. But that is not the water that creates our reality just now. We’re in the Kerala backwaters … a lattice-like network of waterways—29 lakes, 41 rivers, estuaries and canals—that parallel India’s […]
| Mother India’s Mantra | We come to the sprawling Asian subcontinent for the sweep of its history, its spicy curry of culture and geography, its ancient pathways to spiritual discovery: to see how 1.2 billion Indians co-exist while living life at the extremes. Indian trip planning invariably includes precautionary advice. Against getting sick or […]