Tikal: green base camp

15 May 09

| Guatemala’s Green Godfather |

Pyramids in Tikal National Park, Guatemala

The ancient Mayan city of Tikal is a true wonder of the archeological world, and the 200+ square miles of protected tropical forest that surround it are reasons enough for a visit to northern Guatemala. But where do you stay? We have a suggestion you shouldn’t refuse. Film director Francis Ford Coppola (the Godfather series, Apocalypse Now) owns a trio of luxury green resorts in this part of the world. Two are in nearby Belize, but La Lancha Resort, overlooking Guatemala’s placid Lake Petén Itzá, is within easy striking distance of Tikal National Park.

La Lancha Resort on Lake Petén Itzá, Guatemala

La Lancha: Tikal now

At La Lancha you’ll find only 10 guest casitas splayed down a steep hillside, all with wooden decks for hammock lounging, bright native textiles and lovely Guatemalan and Balinese antiques. Coppola is said to have been hands-on with this staging and is “very supportive” of ongoing green enhancements and outreach (including environmental education) to the villagers of Jobompiche down the road.

As we gaze out to the lake on our first afternoon, just chilling, we see a vigorous rustling in the trees beyond our deck. Suddenly there’s a fast-moving dark shape, then another and another and another … it’s the friendly neighborhood troupe of howler monkeys! But they all must have pressed their mute buttons, because they are quiet as proverbial church mice and soon settle down to some serious chilling themselves. As we make our way to dinner, they are still hanging out.

Incremental greening

Deck view to Lake Petén Itzá at La Lancha Resort in northern Guatemala

La Lancha: view to the lake

The food in the palapa-style lodge is best called gourmet Guatemalan. Beef is local and grass-fed, white bass is bought from the lake by local fishermen, veggies are carefully sourced from the highlands. Every evening a lady in traditional dress shapes fresh masa dough and slaps them onto the outdoor comal to cook into tortillas. Wines from Coppola’s own California vineyard—where grapes are sustainably grown—are surprisingly simpatico with this fare.

The property predates Coppola’s ownership, so its greening has been incremental. “We feel we have a way to go, but we aspire to it,” in the words of a resident manager. Among the measures in place are use of eco-friendly toiletries and cleaning (except for limited use of bleach), bio-degradable laundry detergent, composting, a small organic garden, filtered water from the lake, energy-efficient lighting and guest mini-fridges. In newly added casitas, local materials include clay used in the plaster.

Bedroom at La Lancha Resort on Lake Petén Itzá, Guatemala

La Lancha: sleeping

Heading the wish list is switching to purification of the swimming pool without use of chlorine. Until then, you can always take the nature trail down to the lake to cool off in its clear waters, or hop in a resort kayak to do a little free-style exploring.

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